Patek Philippe Nautilus Flyback Chronograph Reference 5980/60G-001

Patek Philippe Nautilus Flyback Chronograph Reference 5980/60G-001 Apparently, earlier fashions are back. Glossy magazines, fashion blogs, and Gen Z all tell me this. If some of you are too young or too old to remember, you're in luck. I, on the other hand, am at the perfect age to fall victim to velvet tracksuits, fancy tops, silly accessories and denim everything. There was one particular moment that encapsulated what a weird time it was in fashion - Britney Spears and Justin Timberlake stepped out together in matching denim outfits; it was spectacular (if you haven't seen this image yet, Just google it and you’ll get a chuckle). This is what immediately came to mind when I saw Patek Philippe sporting some cowboy-style straps on at least two of its new models at Watches & Wonders 2024. Do Patek Philippe watches wear jeans now? ! Wow, this move is unfathomable in my head and feels a bit like a mid-life crisis for me. We got our hands on the Patek Philippe Nautilus Flyback Chronograph Reference 5980/60G-001 to see if this new addition to the wardrobe is a “worthy” or a bust.

Just a few months ago, Patek Philippe discontinued all remaining Nautilus 5980 watches in its catalog (in rose gold and two-tone rose gold and steel), effectively abandoning the entire model. However, the brand has now relaunched the fan-favorite Nautilus Flyback Chronograph, this time in white gold. Of course, the wearing experience and dimensions are the same as the previous version, which is 40.5mm from 10 to 4 o'clock, 12.2mm thick, and 51.4mm lug-to-lug distance. As you can tell from the photos of the Nautilus on Ed's 6.6-inch wrist, it's not a compact timepiece by any means; it wears like a roomy but extremely comfortable sports watch. It's wide due to the signature "ears" of the porthole-shaped case, but it's fairly flat and the chronograph pushers don't get in the way due to their angled position.

This is a Patek Philippe product, so the execution and quality are, as expected, excellent. Nautilus cases are known for their lovely combinations of finishes. For example, the octagonal bezel, lugs, and tops of the lugs are brushed, while the bezel bevels, chronograph pushers, and case-to-strap connection are polished. While you might get lost in examining the case from every angle to discover the various finishes and bevels, it’s their combination that gives the Nautilus its unique charm.

The opalescent blue-gray dial was a highlight for Patek Philippe at the show, appearing on four of the 11 watches Patek Philippe released. The color is attractive on its own and complements the white gold case, baton hour markers and round baton hands. The customary horizontal groove is retained, as is the single counter at 6 o'clock, cleverly combining the concentric scales of the 60-minute and 12-hour counters. Likewise, if we zoom in on the details, we can see the snailed texture of the single counter, the brushed texture of the central chronograph hands, and the polished texture of the date frame. Whether it’s the case, dial, or any other watch component, attention to these seemingly small details is what separates the wheat from the chaff.

Enough stuff I already know would be nice; how about the new blue-gray calfskin strap with the “denim pattern” print? Can Patek Philippe Nautilus really wear jeans? Well, as my colleague Jake Witkin said, "It's definitely got a vibe." I have to admit, it does look better in person than it does in press photos; it's also impeccably made and super comfortable. But style-wise, it still doesn't work for me. Yes, the color matches the dial perfectly and I find it adds a casual vibe to a white gold sports watch. However, this is too Canadian a tuxedo for my taste and I can imagine the look going out of style very quickly. Justin and Britney thought their outfit was a hit at the time (like millions of people around the world), but now the evidence from that night has become a hilarious meme.

Maybe dad jeans are cool again, especially when Patek Philippe wears them, but what about when they don’t? I mean, it felt too stylish and too laborious for a Patek Philippe watch, and it just wasn't for me. I also didn't like it when Omega tried this on the Railmaster. Then again, this watch isn't made for me and I have no doubt that the jeans-wearing Nautilus will have a legion of fans and will no doubt sell out quickly.

White hand-sewn stitching on the edges further emphasizes the denim style, and the straps feature a white gold nautilus buckle. The Nautilus Flyback Chronograph 5980/60G-001 also comes with an additional composite strap that also features a blue-gray fabric pattern and white stitching.

A sapphire crystal window on the back of the watch offers a glimpse of the Caliber CH 28‑520 C/522 automatic flyback chronograph movement that powers the new flyback chronograph. The 30 mm movement operates at 28,800 times per hour, offers a power reserve of 45 to 55 hours, and consists of 327 parts, including a 21k gold central rotor engraved with the Patek Philippe Calatrava cross and a Spiromax® balance spring. As is customary, the movement carries the Patek Philippe seal; however, it is worth noting that for 2024, the company has announced stricter internal sealing standards. According to the announcement, “all watches equipped with a Silinvar® Spiromax® hairspring or a traditional Breguet hairspring must comply with a strict tolerance range of -1 to +2 seconds per 24 hours.” Previously, watches with a diameter of 20 mm or more bearing the Patek Philippe seal The accuracy of the movement must be within the range of -3 to +2 seconds per 24 hours.

The new white gold Nautilus Flyback Chronograph is water-resistant to 30 meters. Before you react in disbelief to this rating, Patek Philippe has also redefined the standard for water resistance for 2024. The official announcement stated, “In order to ensure the homogeneity and clarity of information provided to customers, Patek Philippe has decided to introduce a new unified standard. All waterproof-certified watches are waterproof to a depth of 30 meters – all have been tested in air and water. Tested by immersion in water at an overpressure of 3 bar (equivalent to a depth of 30 m). “Essentially, any Patek Philippe watch (produced from 2024) marked as waterproof is safe to shower, bathe, swim, and even dive. to a depth of 30 meters. This is an interesting move for the company, and I wonder if other watch brands will follow suit and announce simpler waterproof standards.